Posts Tagged ‘ Grace Coddington ’

Vogue US November 2011 – “Call In The Cavalry”

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World War I. A young man is reunited with his beloved horse. A beautifully dressed woman stares off into the distance. These two have little to do with each other in this flawed editorial that’s less of a movie tie-in (for the upcoming release of “War Horse”) and more of a thematic clutching at straws.

Visually, there’s a lot to love about the images – the sombre palette of grey/grey-blues, browns and greens evokes the melancholy mood of wartime, while the high-contrast lighting keeps the images crisp and dynamic. Grace Coddington’s choices of long skirts and sleeves (with little in the way of accessories) is consistent with the austere wartime theme, though the geometric patterned Balenciaga jumper appears glaringly out of place here – it worked better in “Midi Town”, Arizona’s Vogue UK August 2011 editorial.

However the biggest flaw of this editorial is with the direction of the two models. Granted, the film “War Horse” is centred around the story of a young man (played by Jeremy Irvine) and his horse, but Arizona is given too little to do here: is she supposed to play a woman who has lost a loved one in the war? The shot where she caresses the lapels of an army-green coat (by Dior) would have the viewer think so. The potential for this idea is never fully realised, and the lack of interaction between Arizona and Jeremy (save for one shot) leads me to conclude that we’re looking at two completely different editorials that happened to have been shot together.

Unfortunately the shortcomings of this editorial don’t stop there. The final shot of Arizona, dressed as a bride who knows her lover may never come home is rather stunning – until one realises that it looks almost the same as Sims’ own image for the current Alexander McQueen campaign.

Editorial shot:

Alexander McQueen F/W 2011-2012:

alexander mcqueen

This was the final disappointment for me in an editorial that seemed to have run out of ideas. While pretty to look at, it’s a thumbs down from me.

Vogue US March 2011 – “Punk’d”

(this review by special request)

I don’t have much more to add to Rrose’s review. I agree with her when she points out the fun nature of this editorial and the humour and expressiveness that Freja, Raquel and Arizona bring to it. If it wasn’t for those particular aspects then this editorial would be totally forgettable.

I’m not sure what Grace Coddington was thinking when the black shaggy wigs were decided upon, but they’re certainly not ‘punk’ – more of a high fashion idea of what the ‘punk’ aesthetic is. Plus jackets designed by Nicholas Ghesquiere aren’t exactly ‘punk’ either!

Once again, high fashion has tried to keep itself relevant by copying street trends and jacking up the price. Money creates taste, after all.*

Or perhaps the joke is on us, the desirers and potential buyers of said $2000 jackets and $1000 ripped (silk) shirts – the title is ‘Punk’d’!

In the end, it’s just another editorial in another magazine that’s expected to churn out hundreds of pages of new content per month – it can’t be expected that every page will be good.

*from artist Jenny Holzer

(with thanks to frejabeha.blogspot for the scans)